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Writer's pictureClara Raven

Post Pandemic Portugal


I recently spent a week away in Portugal with my husband. Like for many people, it was the first time we had travelled aboard on a plane since the pandemic started. In the past, the airport was filled with people laughing and getting excited in anticipation for their holidays, but this time, I noticed how eerily quiet it was with emotions muffled by masks. It felt quite claustrophobic having to wear masks in such a confined space especially one we boarded the plane but luckily, we were allowed to remove them to eat and drink.


When we arrived in Cascais, it was raining whereas the UK were basking in a heatwave. However, we were staying in a cute and stylish airbnb modern cabin within the grounds of the owner's house, with access to an outside swimming pool surrounded by lush vegtation including a palm tree. After a long day travelling, it was heavenly to immerse into the hot water with jets to unwind. We discovered a fortress, adjacent to the harbour as we walked to St Marta Lighthouse the next day. We, obviously, had to climb the winding staircase to take in the panorama and be windswept as we walked around the viewing deck with our slightly wobbly legs. Maria’s historic house nextdoor was beautiful to explore and in a fantastic location near the lighthouse. We walked on further taking in the crashing waves at the blow hole before getting a cab onto a restaurant. We sat overlooking sets of waves and eating a freshly caught pink, black mouth fish which was expertly filleted and washed down with chilled white wine.


Our next destination was Lisbon where we met up with friends we hadn't seen for three years. We caught up over dinner and the next day, the four of us caught the train to Sintra. I got an adrenaline rush on the tuk tuk ride going up the hillside, round and round sharp corners with sheer drops, screaming with exhilaration and fear, while the others smiled coolly, as they all kite surf and parachute jump for fun. At the top, we visited the Sintra Palace which was very colourful with typical Portugeuse tiles everywhere and set in beautiful gardens with a spectacular view. We joined some friends of our friends for sushi that evening and I was pleased to see there were a few cooked things on the menu as I'm not into raw fish. The following day, we rode on tram number 28 through Lisbon’s old town and mooched through the main square in the blistering sun, which had finally caught up with us and ate fish with wine, overlooking the river. The hotel we stayed at had a roof top pool but with no water in it. The locals were wearing raincoats and hats, when we were in our summer clothes ready for an outside swim. There was a cool pool inside though, so we swam there instead after all our trekking around the city. We were invited to dinner with more friends of our friends, in their stunning apartment and enjoyed fish and homemade vegan chocolate cake, where we ate, drank, chatted and laughed until late.


The last two nights were spent an hour’s drive away at a hippie surf hotel right opposite the beach at Santa Cruz. It made me realise how much more at home I am in the peace and quiet of the countryside or by the coast than in a bustling city. My husband surfed while I read on my sunbed. It was gloriously hot on our last day and it was good to feel your warm skin quenched with a cold dip in the pool at the end of the day. I loved padding along the wooden floorboards barefoot before dinner in the restaurant looking out onto the moonlit beach for our last fish dish accompanied by wine in Portugal. We left in the morning after my usual breakfast of pasteis de nata - which I had become addicted to, nicely complimented by a cortado - didn't mind if I did.


Once home, we needed a rest as we were worn out from all the excitement, socialisation (we sound like dogs) and relaxation that we have not been used to these past years. As my Dad always likes to say when back from a holiday...'It's nice to go away, but it's nice to come home.' We are already planning our next trip away but in the meantime, are going to enjoy some downtime and reflect on what a good time we had.


Number 28 Lisbon Tram


Sintra Palace


Pasteis de nata accompanied by Cortados


Portuguese Tiles

Marta Lighthouse & Maria House


Santa Cruz Beach









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