I was going to do a general write up of my campervan trip with my husband, Alan, and dog, Lola, from Calais to Santiago de Compostela for a month but instead I thought I would type up my diary entries instead. I hope they don't bore you to death but show you how our slow journey went. They mainly consist of where we've been, me sitting reading in the sunshine and what we've eaten that day. Hopefully, the pictures will bring to life the beauty that surrounded us along the way...
(On the road driving Gloria the VW Campervan through France...)
Day One - 13th April - Calais Take Your Car To France With Eurotunnel LeShuttle™ - Camping De la Mottelette, Forest Montiers Contact – Ferme de la Mottelette (la-mottelette.com)
We caught Le Shuttle from Folkestone to Calais. 'Such fun' as Miranda's mum would say. Driving our campervan full of everything we could possibly need for our next month. We drove (when I say we, I mean Alan) the van onto the futuristic looking, dusty train. We shuffled up so all vehicles were in a neat line. Three beeps and we were off and it only took thirty five minutes until we 'landed' in Calais. Of course, we forgot to pack a proper map so used Google maps on our phones. The roads are so clear and wide in France with great expanses of flat fields - very similar landscapes to Norfolk and New Zealand. I was in my absolute element looking at my favourite view in the world - rich brown ploughed fields. There were also the contrasting bright yellow rapeseed fields. We passed through cute villages with shuttered one storey, stone cottages painted in an assortment of pastel shades. The music was blasting out and we ate hunks of baguette and bit off chunks of cheese as we mosied along the pretty route, taking in the spectacular scenery. The first night we stayed at Camping De la Mottelette in Forest Montiers which had basic shower and toilet facilities, space for a few tents and vans but mainly consisted of a village of static holiday homes with a ploughed field in the background. For dinner, we knocked up tinned sardines, couscous and cauliflower rice on the camping stove, which was surprisingly tasty.
(Tractor ploughing rich brown field)
(Rapeseed bright yellow field)
Day Two - 14th April - Forest Montiers - Saint Valery Sur Somme - Calvados park4night - Home
We headed for the historical town, Saint Valery Sur Somme and enjoyed mooching along past pretty cherry trees in blossom. We found a cafe serving muscles in garlic which Alan enjoyed but I just ate fries and coca cola, as still getting used to being back in Gloria the boneshaker. We walked back past old train carriages and boats and hopped into Gloria on our way to a ParkForNight spot that campervans use to sleep for free or relatively cheaply on their travels. This is a great app that lists places that have safe places to stay overnight but no facilities - so fine if you are a motorhome with a toilet and shower on board - less ideal, however, if you don't have these facilities. We did, however, have a new bivvy toilet to christen and that I did. It's not all glamour on the road you know. We also keep a basic potty on board for a night time wee and can dispose of in a bush or campsite toilet in the morning. How lovely. We spent the night on a farm growing apples and selling Calvados, which we, of course, had to buy a petite bottle of and it warmed our cockles as we ate a feast of crackers and cheese for main course, followed by peanut butter and raspberry jam smeared on digestive biscuits for dessert.
(Cherry blossom trees at Saint Valery Sur Somme)
(ParkForNight spot on Calvados farm)
Day Three - 15th April - Calvados - Huttopia Campsite, Sumsur Camping Saumur - Vacances dans la Loire - Huttopia
En route the next day, we stopped at a roadside restaurant for espresso and tarte tatin - my kind of breakfast. Lola was welcomed inside, which was good because it was raining and she enjoyed a few apple slices. Back on the road, we drove for hours through more beautiful countryside and villages, passing huge crucifixes of Jesus on the edge of many a village. There was such stunning architecture - some gothic, chateaux and cute cottages. I took so many photos of their faded grandeur and beauty. We reached Sumsur at Huppoia campsite and what a place. I wish I'd known about here when my daughters were younger as they would have loved it. There were outdoor and indoor swimming pools, table tennis, boule, ball and beanbag games, a playground, pizza restaurant, all surrounded by trees and overlooking the Loire. It was quite overcast but we were hoping to stay two nights, unless it rained and then we would be on our way. I had a lovely swim in the indoor pool, that I had all to myself and it was wonderful to stretch out and soothe my muscles after hours sat in the van. Afterwards I had a heavenly, hot shower. It had started to rain so we drove into Sumur town and downed espressos in a bar then walked down to a little restaurant called Four Seasons where we dined on a three course set menu of fish in garlic, lemon, pesto and salad, followed by roast chicken, green beans, buttered rice and apple pie for dessert. We had a some Sumur dry white to wash our fare down with.
(Crucifix of Jesus - found at the edge of many a village)
Day Four - 16th April - Sumsur - Huttopia, Il de re, St Maria Ars-en-Ré - Huttopia
Headed towards La Rochelle for more warmth as colder than expected and been wearing the only warm clothes we brought with us for the fifth day in a row. Found another Huttopia natural campsite to stay at in Il de re. It is so pretty and surrounded by pine trees with warm, dappled sunlight shining through. The showers were hot, plus so well designed with a shower one side of a partition and sink with mirror on the other side, plus shelves for your toiletries and a hook for your towel and clothes. Very exciting. There are lots of these Huttopia campsites all over France, Amsterdam, USA and one in Spain. I am sitting here writing this sitting in my camp chair, soaking up the sun with a blanket on my legs like a little old lady. Meanwhile, my husband has been tinkering with his new toy of a camping stove, which he got working in just under an hour. It is so peaceful here, even with other families nearby, some cycling past us on the pathways - it seems to be the kind of place that attracts gentle, quiet people. Lola put a stop to that with her barking but people just smile in an understanding way. It is such a friendly site and I can't recommend it enough. Going to try another coffee from our Italian coffee pot on the newly working stove. I had one earlier with a pain au chocolat, which was divine. So far, I am loving camping in France - the French certainly know how to camp. We plan to explore the rest of Ile de re and then onto La Rochelle for lunch and a mooch. Next stop will be Biarritz.
(Lola sniffing the wisteria on Huttopia campsite with the indoor swimming pool in background)
(Perfectly designed shower cubicle at Huttopia Campsite)
Day Five - 17th April - Camping Le Puma, Ile de re Campsite Ile de Ré ~ Campsite Charente-Maritime ~ ᐃ LE PUMA ***
We ended up faffing about for ages at the campsite and so headed to St Martin at Il de re for lunch. It is a stylish harbour with blue and green shuttered white buildings, boutiques and shops. We found a cafe and sat outside eating white bait and chips with white wine and indulged in crepes with salted caramel ice cream, chocolate profiteroles and espressos. We walked to the lighthouse and I needed a wee so badly, I was wishing the van was nearby with our potty but shuffled pigeon steps until we found another cafe on the other side of the harbour for for espresso and a lavatoire. Alan and I were high from too much caffeine and in a spending mood. He treated me to a gorgeous purple and orange floral kantha dressing gown which is perfect for the van and home to keep cosy over pyjamas or even outdoors. We drove along the island and the main lighthouse Phare Des Balenes. On the way, we noticed a cute looking campsite called Camping Le Puma, so checked in before continuing our journey. We love visiting lighthouses and it was a truly spectacular one that we took Accidentally Wes Anderson style photographs of - the best being of Lola in front of (we took her off the lead to take the photo and she made a run for it and needed to be chased for a while before going back on the lead). The weather was quite windy and chilly but the sun was out and so lovely on our faces. We walked along the wall overlooking the beach. I'm sitting in sunshine now reading with Lola by my feet and about to do some French Duolingo. We plan to walk to the beach in a moment and laze around here and get pizza onsite later as a cute restaurant is attached. After much lazing and faffing, we had espresso and vegetable thin based delicious pizza at campsite and then walked along the beautiful, sandy beach with Lola. It was so hot that Alan and I went for a dip in the sea and took Lola with us to cool down. She went loopy and acted hilariously afterwards. We laid for a while on the sand until we had dried off and walked further along to Cafe De La Plage for coffee and tiramisu (me) and oysters and white wine (Alan). We walked back and Lola ran, making dog friends along the way.
(Cute one storey cottage with customary green shutters in St Marin, Il de re)
(Profiteroles, crepes and salted caramel ice-cream at St Martin Harbour, Il de re)
(Campsite sink at Camping Le Puma, Il de re)
(Accidentally Wes Anderson photo of Lola in front of Phare Des Balenes)
Day Nine - 21st April - Il de re - Le Tedey, Lac du Lacanau Découvrez notre camping à Lacanau au cœur du Medoc et de la Gironde (campingletedey.com)
I haven't written for a few days. We are now staying at a 'reassuringly expensive' campsite (quoting my husband) at Le Tedey in Lac du Lacanau. We are in spot 351 right on the lake and it is beautiful. We set up camp for a few nights just to relax as been on road so much. We walked along the water's edge to Sunrise restaurant overlooking the water and further on but it got very windy on the other side of the lake. By the time we got back to our pitch, it was warm and still, so took the plunge and had a dip in the freezing cold lake with our wetsuit tops on. Alan had invested in a portable outside camping shower and hooked it up to a tree, where we could emerge from the invigorating water and then instantly warm up. The showers at the block were pretty rubbish as only last about ten seconds before you have to push the button again for more luke warm water. I got in a strop at yesterday's campsite at Sandaya in Soulac Sur Mer Camping Soulac Plage 4 étoiles - Soulac Sur Mer, Gironde (sandaya.fr), as I was totally starkers and had set up my lotions and potions on a shelf, hung up my clothes and towel and then it was stone cold. So, I had to dress again and gather my stuff and move to another cubicle that was thankfully hot (Poor Lulu as Alan would say, relating to Harry Enfield sketch). I hate walking about sites in my jimjams, hair all over the place and looking like a weirdo. Anyway, I came back clean, at least, after my slight palaver and on the bright side by the time I had walked back to the van my pyjama bottoms and flipflops were finally dry again. The site was gorgeous and had comfortable outside sofas to read on, overlooking the beach. Most days, by the time we have had a lie in, eaten breakfast, washed up, had a shower, it's already lunchtime. Such a hard life. Days are going so fast, We eat lunch, walk Lola on beach or through woods, swim, read, have dinner, watch a film on our ipad and then cosy on down in our sleeping bags for the night. Like a holiday Groundhog Day. It's now late afternoon and Alan is giving Lola a pamper session, brushing her and trimming her eyebrows. I feel I could do with one too. I look like I've aged twenty years being out in the elements - more wrinkles and sunspots, untamed hair, witch hairs on my chin. Time for a glass of red wine, a handful of crisps and read a chapter of my book to take my mind off the reflection in my hand mirror, which seems to show up every imperfection in the sunlight. I'll have to use my face roller to Billy-O when I get home.
(Sunset at Soulac Sur Mer)
(Camp set up at Lac du Lacanau)
(Lac du Lacanau - like being on set of Where The Crawdads Sing)
Day Ten - 22nd April - Lacanau, Hossegor, Biarritz
Alan went for a dip in the lake but I was too cold so went for a shower and this time it lasted thirty seconds and was hot = result. By the time I arrived back from the block, my lovely husband had prepared a delicious breakfast of eggs, Parma ham, cheese, fresh baguette, croissants and coffee. He's so good, kind and generous. I had discovered in the toilet block that I had come on my period and that my stroppy princess behaviour was down to PMT. Alan wasn't a bit surprised and it all fell into place for me too. I never know where I am these days as going through perimenopause and not sure when a period is about to strike. I should really go by my moods as they seem a pretty accurate pointer. Bloody hormones. I washed up and we packed up van together and made our way to Lacanau beach, Hossegor, Biarritz and then Spain.
Day Twelve - 24th April - Biarritz - Gran Camping Zarautz HOME - Gran Camping Zarautz
We spent night eleven sleeping in car park of Natureo Campsite after arriving too late to check in to actual site from a full day on the road but just in time for margheritas and calamari in the restaurant. We slept like babies and warm from the potent alcohol (less like infants). Drove until we made it into Spain and rested at Zarautz at a campsite with lovely long and hot showers. There was space for dry clothes and a shelf for shampoo - always a bonus. The woman who was cleaning the block was like a beautiful athlete in her gym gear, sweeping, mopping, emptying bins and cleaning sinks. We climbed 333 steps after descending them first to reach the beach. It was a bit of a concrete block parade along the sea front, which reminded me of the South Bank in London. Ate some tapas after Lola had run free on the beach and befriended a fox terrier. High on the hill, looking over rolling hills, we got chatting to the couple in the pitch beside us. They were from Amsterdam and on a month's road trip, like us, now their daughters were in their twenties. Heading for a cute cove near Bilbao and the weather is improving after a cold spell. Enjoyed a vegetable and anchovy tortilla, baguette and espresso at the dock at Getaria en route.
(View from our pitch at Gran Camping Zarautz)
(Countryside at Zarautz)
Day Thirteen - 25th April - Zarautz - Mundaka - Playa de Regaton, Laredo Camping Playa del Regatón - Camping en Laredo (campingplayaregaton.com)
Took N364 road through charming towns, past rivers, railways and lovely views of countryside. Stopped en route in Mundaka which is a gorgeous little surfing town. We parked up the van and had lunch of tuna salad, nachos and guacamole overlooking the port with compulsory espressos. Mooched about the town soaking up the day's rays on the sunny sides of the streets. The couple we met from Amsterdam were heading for a campsite we had recommended, Camping Playa del Regaton, so we said we would meet them there. Drove over hills and stuck to the pretty scenic roads until the last hour, when we cheated and went on the motorway to reach the campsite before dark. We did take a wrong turn at the end and drove through a dirt road past farmland, which was actually rustically beautiful. Other guests were coming in via a more robust road. Our friends had been sitting in the sunshine after a walk along the estuary when we arrived. Set up our campervan for the night by popping up the roof, laying out the electric blanket, sleeping bags and potty at the ready, then joined them at the onsite bar and restaurant. Drank beer and had a laugh with the waitress who had a good sense of humour. We over ordered, which she found highly amusing. Ended up chatting until the staff were sweeping up around us, so finished the evening drinking night cap beers in our friends cool van and crashed out at midnight.
(The gorgeous surfing town Mundaka)
(Estuary beach at Playa de Regaton, Laredo)
Day Fourteen - 26th April Laredo - Comillas - Camping Oyambre Beach Camping Oyambre Beach
Woke up to rain, a pain au chocolate and the obligatory coffee for breakfast. Had a lovely power shower in the block and when I returned to the van, the rain had cleared up, so walked along the estuary beach with our friends. Some horses galloped along beside us and Lola barked - so embarrassing. Dark rainclouds were looming, so we headed back to the campsite just in time to miss the downpour and take shelter and enjoy homemade cheesecake, before saying our goodbyes and heading for Comillas. We got hungry on the way so stopped at an industrial town to have a subtle wee (close curtains, obtain potty and commence flow). We made up a picnic of tomatoes, cucumber, lettuce, chunks of cheese and hunks of bread. The pollution was unbearable so we climbed back inside and ate our feast on the road. Don't worry, we sanitised our hands. By the time we reached Comillas we were covered in crumbs. The campsite I had earmarked was closed but as we had a nosey around, we discovered the perfect campsite which was open, called Camping Oyambre Beach. We pitched up on a spot overlooking a stunning beach, raggedy steps leading down to the sand and trees around to provide shade and shelter. I am sitting here after setting up a washing line between two trees, on my orange striped 1950's camping chair with the weather warming up nicely after the rain. Lola is snoozing on her bed. There is a cafe open until 6pm on the beach or until later on site, so we are sorted for food.
(Driving van onto our pitch at rustic and charming Camping Oyambre Beach)
Day Fifteen - 27th April - Camping Oyambre Beach Camping Oyambre Beach
Spent two nights so far at Oyambre Campsite and it is so idyllic here. We have the cutest spot in the corner of the field overlooking glorious beach. Alan has finally been able to hang up his hammock and he's enjoying a lie down after all the driving he's been doing. It's been raining on and off, so when it's sunny we sit in camp chairs or in the hammock and read, listen to music, the sea, go on our phones and then nip back in van with all our belongings when too wet and snuggle up in our sleeping bags to read or watch a movie on our ipad. Had coffee brewed on the camping stove with Milka Moo cow and palm heart biscuits smeared with raspberry jam - what a treat. The past two nights we have eaten spare ribs at the onsite restaurant. Our waitress reminds us of a young version of Alan's late mum. We raised a glass to her memory and the second night, raised a glass to my mum, who is alive and well. We have both been very lucky with our mums. Both strong, fun, kind and caring. Yesterday, we walked along beach to the cafe on the sand and ate tuna salad, garlic prawns and mushrooms. Met a girl on the pilgrimage 'Camino de Santiago' and she had walked 300km. Going to go back for lunch at the beach cafe again today before cosying up in the van to watch another movie as rain due again this afternoon. I did some washing yesterday and hung up on the line - I love the smell of clean laundry and in fact, doing laundry is my favourite chore (riveting stuff). My husband went surfing yesterday and this morning, so he was in his element too.
(View of Oyambre Beach from our pitch)
Day Sixteen - 28th April - Camping Oyambre Beach Camping Oyambre Beach
The sun has finally come out properly and is going to be hot for two whole days. Will stay here a bit longer and then head onto La Paz before looping down south a bit to catch some more sun on the drive home. Just ate biscuits with jam and coffee fresh from the coffee pot with a handful of nuts and cup of peach juice for breakfast. Sitting out in our camp chairs looking out over the surf, which is so soothing - the sound of the sea almost sends you to sleep. It is also fairly noisy so when I walk to the laundry room on site, it is so quiet in comparison. I might even treat myself and shave my legs today as it's sunny enough to get them out and I can dispense with the winter clothes. I've finished reading book 'Cows' by Dawn O'Porter and it was so incredibly good, controversial, funny, feminist and original. Now in my shorts, I am trying to tan my lizard scaly, white skin. Made an effort to set the camping table with a cloth, jamjar filled with wildflowers, cups, plates, crisps in a bowl and bottle of wine for when my husband returns from his evening surf. In the meantime, I'll have a little sip and start the next book in my pile.
(Pitch with a view at Camping Oyambre Beach)
Day Seventeen - 29th April - Camping Oyambre Beach Camping Oyambre Beach
Put a load of laundry on and enjoyed a walk through the campsite to the shop but it was closed, so I couldn't buy razors. My razor was blunt in the shower so couldn't do the deed and shave my legs - damn. But on my walk, it felt so nice to feel the warm breeze flowing through the hairs on the skin of my legs, like a thin muslin cloth or cobweb on them. Maybe I won't shave them after all. Something is so satisfying about putting a load of washing on and the smell of laundry detergent afterwards when hanging clothes out to dry - pure domestic bliss. I'm off again. I'm reading an annotated copy of Paddington Bear at the moment that my older daughter gave me a few years ago at Christmas. I didn't realise at the time that she'd written in it for me and I am liking her sweet comments and feeling nostalgic about the stories from my childhood.
(Steps down from campsite to Oyambre Beach)
Day Eighteen - 30th April - Camping Oyambre Beach Camping Oyambre Beach
It is finally really sunny today and hardly any clouds or wind. I've had a shower and shaved my legs with cheap razors from the shop, which opened in the end. Had breakfast of coffee on camping stove with digestives covered in peanut butter and jam. Also, had some mid morning coffee with nostalgic Limon biscuits - had to text my sister a photo of. I should eat a bit more fruit and veg. Going to read on my chair in the sun with Lola on her dog bed next to me, while Alan goes for a surf. We're going to do yoga later plus have lunch on beach again - gambas aioli - then walk the other end of beach before watching the final episode of The Ashunta Case on ipad, after anchovy pasta for dinner - good day and evening planned.
(Gambas aioli at Yellow Bird, Oyambre Beach Restaurant | Yellow Bird Restaurant (pajaroamarillo.com)
Day Nineteen - 1st May - Camping Oyambre Beach Camping Oyambre Beach
I'm losing track of the days and dates but know for sure it's my niece El's 18th birthday today. The sun is out after raining since 4pm yesterday when we hunkered down in the van and watched film Primal Fear and had a picnic of bread, cheese, crisps and peach juice. Didn't drink any alcohol yesterday and felt so much better. Think white wine, although wonderful, makes me feel bad the next day. Sitting in sunshine but wrapped up in my tartan blanket as chilly wind going on. I'll bask here on my chair taking in the view of waves rolling in, clear skies, hillsides, dotted with farm houses, trees and reading my blook = bliss. We might move our pitch today to another part of the campsite with a table to prepare food from and near a water tap plus a bit more sheltered and sunny. Hoping the beach cafe open for garlic prawns today as it was closed yesterday - else we can make our own food or go to cafe inside and escape the wind.
(Lola on windy day at Oyambre Beach)
Day Twenty - 2nd May - Camping Oyambre Beach Camping Oyambre Beach
Such a scorching hot day today. Had breakfast in my PJs with my hippy flower robe on, shades and hat - looked a right sight. Nice hot shower and now reading and writing in sunshine, Lola by my feet. Alan's just been for a surf and then we going to do some yoga and walk Lola on beach. We had our usual prawns in garlic yesterday with beer, followed by chocolate cake and espresso. We are such creatures of habit. Walked to left of beach, down to rock pools - so pretty and tranquil. Lola thirsty so I had a marvellous idea to put some of our drinking water in empty rock pool hole and she drank it up from the rock shaped dog bowl. Think we leaving here tomorrow or Saturday. Then visiting La Paz, Santiago de Compostela and loop back to Calais.
(Lola drinking fresh water poured into a rock shaped dog dish)
Day Twenty One - 3rd May - Camping Oyambre Beach Camping Oyambre Beach - Camping La Paz, Llanes Camping La Paz |
We finally left Oyambre Campsite and drove all of 40km up coast road to reach near Llanes - Camping La Paz. We'd been recommended this place but not sure who by. When we arrived it was overcast so we just had some espressos in cafe to think about staying. The panoramic views from the restaurant reminded me of somewhere similar I had visited with my mum in Porthcurno in Cornwall. We walked down to look at the pitch and it was overlooking amazing waves and a cute little cove with electric hook up - just as the sun came out. So, of course, we decided we had to stay. I walked Lola on the beach and paddled my feet while Alan checked in and drove Gloria down to her new spot. We set up camp, did some yoga and now sitting looking out over the crashing waves before heading up to the cafe for lunch. It's so mediative looking at waves. Lola is lolling by my feet as I write this, wearing her pale pink kerchief and looking pretty.
(The wonderful view from Camping La Paz cafe)
Day Twenty Two - 4th May - Camping La Paz, Llanes Camping La Paz |
Walked up steep hill to shower block where you have to press a massive button for hot water in blasts. Alan took Lola down to the beach to play with Willy, another Airedale Terrier, from Germany. I think they are having a holiday romance together. They chased each other along the beach until Lola was exhausted and had to come back to base for water and a lie down. Earlier on the beach, a dog attacked Willy and Lola butted in to protect him. Sitting in the sun now. When Lola has fully recovered, I fancy having a dip in the sea. Last night ate in restaurant and her boyfriend Willy woofed when we came in. I'm losing it. We ate too much calamari and croquettes with beer, then wine. I really must stop drinking white wine but it goes so well with the weather. Just had a dip in the sea - refreshing and fun to jump waves with Alan. I wore my full length wetsuit and very snug on me now. Dried off with the quick dry towel I brought with me that's pretty cool. Alan's just trudged up the hill to fill up the portable shower unit with hot water so we can wash up later. He's making pasta for late lunch. Need to head to next village and find a bookshop as I only have a few pages left to read of my book.
(Willy and Lola enjoying a doggy holiday romance on La Paz Campsite Beach)
Day Twenty Three - 5th May - La Paz Campsite - Otur Beach
Decided to carry on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela and will still have six days to return on homeward journey by motorways instead of N-roads and scenic route. Drove to Ribadesella just as started to rain and had lunch undercover. Shared a lubina fish grilled to perfection in olive oil, with new potatoes plus samphire (algae) and tomatoes. Enjoyed a glass of red wine each to warm our cockles as a bit brrr, then stuffed our faces with tiramisu and espressos. Popped in a few shops beforehand and one shop keeper said Happy Mother's Day to me in French and as I didn't understand, a fellow shopper translated her kind message for me. I must just look like a mum as I didn't have any children with me. Drove for hours through beautiful countryside with misty mountains and colourful houses on hilltops. I wanted to take photos of so many houses I loved that we passed but felt bad to keep asking Alan to stop. Instead I did 'drive by' photos but couldn't capture the beauty as well. It's a bit of a palaver to turn the van around as quite cumbersome to drive. We did go back to take photos of a plaster pink church called Santa Ana though. I adore pink houses. Ended up going around so many windy roads until we finally reached our destination of Otur Beach but the campsite was closed. It was 8pm so we decided to be naughty and camp in the beach car park. A fellow dog walker said it was tranquil and not to worry, that we wouldn't be moved on. We sent a video message to El as her family 18th party. I was so pleased our daughters went to celebrate with her as we couldn't be there. The sunset and Michael Angelo clouds were spectacular and morphed into black cotton wool, overhanging us with little droplets of rain. We managed to eat our dinner of tinned tomato soup heated up on our camping stove with fresh baguette and almost broke our teeth on slab of chocolate we had bought from deli in Ribadesella earlier. Cosied up in van and watched film Super Nova before settling down to sleep.
(Santa Ana en route)
(Santa Ana en route)
(Otur Beach sign)
(Otur Beach sunset)
Day Twenty Four - 6th May Otur Beach - Santiago de Compostela - Green Village Campsite, Bergondo Camping Green Village, Bergondo, La Coruna - Updated 2024 prices | Pitchup.com
Woke up to a digger in the car park and the civil guard - eek! We were told by workmen that we weren't allowed to camp there. We acted dumb and said we thought the Camping Playa de Otur was on the beach, as campsite was practically next door. They said it was closed and we couldn't camp there again. We said we were sorry and were leaving. Two of the civil guard walked past us and I smiled sweetly, as we packed our things and off we went on our merry way. My back is aching a bit because we didn't have the electric blanket on as no hook up - Poor Lulu. Drove to roadside cafe and bar to eat the best tortilla so far - with a bonus of fresh bread on the side and espressos. Alan made friends with the men in the bar and took photos with them. He manages to make friends wherever he goes. Got petrol and now Alan stocking up in the supermarket with essentials. I'm minding Lola in the van but itching to go and have a nose at the non essentials. Taken so many photos this trip. Some are for my blog, some for Instagram but mainly just for me. It has been like a dream to see so much beauty. The scenery, the architecture, cute things Lola does. All these things bring me so much joy. My older daughter notices that on the days I don't take photos, I seem sad. It makes total sense to me. I have been constantly winding down my window to capture yet another wonderful view or moment. Sometimes I am too late and Alan has driven past just as I am about to click. We do go back if it is a 'must have' picture but I do let go certain moments and hold onto them somewhere in the labyrinth of my mind. Drove all the way to Santiago de Compostela. It was a beautiful drive, up and over steep hillsides, past colourful and historical looking buildings. It got quite windy for the last few hours of the journey and I felt too sick to take photos. Reached the city and as usual, a pain to drive campervan through. Had a bit of a 'to do' parking up but a kind man helped us to get a space. Two minutes walk from there was the cathedral, where we took turns to look around inside and light a candle for our loved ones. It was full of splendour with golden ceilings and cherubs. We both got to see the site where St James bones are buried and protected by an impressive statue of the apostle, that you queue to hug. Lola had to wait outside with one of us minding her. Afterwards, we had the obligatory photo taken outside with our feet and her paws saying we had walked the Camino de Compostela. People looked impressed that we had completed the pilgrimage with a dog and we whispered that we'd done the spiritual journey by van rather than on foot and paw. Never mind though, as everyone was in such an elated mood to be there, hugging and taking each others photos and good vibes were abound. We found somewhere for coffee and had a mooch about but were happy to reach the van and escape the bustle of the city. We made our way to a campsite on the beach but it was closed, however, found another one open nearby which was quite ramshackle but run by a very friendly woman and her pack of dogs. There were three puppies who were adorable and I was tempted to ask to bring one home with me. Alan wasn't so keen when one of them ran off with our bag of crisps. I thought Lola would love it but she was not amused and not at all broody. Had a deli style dinner and played cards by candlelight but returned into comfort of van before any more of our food was eaten.
(Cool en route bar where we stopped for espressos)
(Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela)
(We lit candles inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela for our loved ones)
(Our feet and paws proving we made the pilgrimage, Camino de Compostela - by van)
Day Twenty Six - 7th May Green Village Campsite, Bergondo - Camping El Rosal, Oyambre Estuary Gallery - Camping rose bush (campingelrosal.com)
Drove away and had coffee on roadside en route just before realising we had left our ice packs at Green Village Campsite. It felt like fate we went back as ended up picking them up and then taking Lola for a walk along the beach and sitting on wall afterwards for a picnic. Drove all day to get to Oyambre on way back towards home. Decided to stay on estuary site instead of same beach one we had before, for a change. It had a beautiful view of the castle and village plus boats on the water. Alan whipped up an anchovy spaghetti dish and I washed up after. Watched movie in bed called I Used To Be Famous which was good. Played cards first and drank red wine under the pine trees.
(Owner of Green Village Campsite's cute puppy)
(Under the shady pine trees at Camping El Rosal, Oyambre Estuary)
(Oyambre Estuary view from campsite)
Day Twenty Seven - 8th May Oyambre Estuary - Le Tedey, Lac du Lacanau Découvrez notre camping à Lacanau au cœur du Medoc et de la Gironde (campingletedey.com)
Drove on N roads for a few hours but so 'stop and start' that moved to toll roads and motorways, which was much quicker. Stopped a few times at services for coffee and wee breaks. Alan drove 500km and we made it back to Lac de Lacanau just after sunset. The drive to site was stunning with lilac and pink cloudy skies. Got spot 325 on the lake. Had a bit of a moment parking up and walked to restaurant to get a drink to unwind but bar too crowded so returned to van and had beers from our cooler, crackers, cheese, peanut butter and jam = camping staples.
Day Twenty Eight - 9th May Le Tedey, Lac du Lacanau Découvrez notre camping à Lacanau au cœur du Medoc et de la Gironde (campingletedey.com)
Woke up to a shimmering lake view and full sunshine. Had a hot shower and changed into shorts and a t-shirt. Alan made a delicious breakfast of coffee, croissants, egg, ham, cheese, baguette and peach juice - yum. Sitting in camp chair writing this with a lovely, warm breeze flowing through my hair. Will wash up soon and swim in lake later. We had to switch pitches as only booked in for one night and someone else booked spot 325. We moved to 333 for two more nights - woohoo! A much more private space and with great access to the lake. I've washed up and been for a little swim in lake - so refreshing. Tied Lola to a tree near the water as she didn't want to come in for a dip with us. Trimmed Alan's hair. Now going to do some yoga in dappled sunlight before peppermint tea and choccy biscuits methinks. Feeling happy. This trip had been a bit like my personality - erratic. So many times within one day, I have wished I was home as missing my home, creature comforts, routine, daughters, mum, sister and friends but then loving the peace, lack of responsibility, freedom, music playing in the van while driving, snuggling in sleeping bags, playing cards by candlelight, sitting in camping chairs soaking up the sun, reading, having a laugh with Alan or being in a comfortable silence. If it gets rainy or cold, it can suddenly bring me down that I have to wee in a potty during the night, my legs might ache after driving for a long time or I get bored of the same old music but then a good song comes on, Alan or Lola makes me laugh or I see a spectacular view and my mood is lifted.
(Back at the beautiful Lac du Lacanau)
Day Twenty Nine - 10th May Le Tedey, Lac du Lacanau Découvrez notre camping à Lacanau au cœur du Medoc et de la Gironde (campingletedey.com)
Another beautiful sunny day, waking up on the lake. I love it here. Such a difference a few weeks make - some perspective and some sunshine. When we came here before, it was windy and cold but had moments of sun. I hated the shower blocks and got in a right mood because I had PMT but didn't even know - that's the bloody peri-menopause for you. Now I am travel worn and homeward bound so that makes me happier. I like holidays but two weeks is definitely enough for me. Maybe that's why so many people holiday for that amount of time. Alan has taken Lola to vet nearby to get her wormer tablet to return to England. She's got an eye infection too, so I hope he gets her some drops - poor bubba. I am obsessed at picking her eye bogies and feeding them to her which she laps up as if they are dog drugs. So gross.
Day Thirty - 11th May Lacanau - Car Park, Luray, Le Luat Clairet
Drove all day passing endless richly ploughed fields and rapeseed bright yellow swathes of land for hours on end until we reached an approved spot outside a leisure centre and we parked there for the night, enjoying a beautiful purple sunset for our last night in France. Lola spotted a cat who was hiding under a nearby car and so we soon retreated inside the van to cosy on down after our usual camp food diet of baguettes, cheese and olives, peanut butter and jam with wine and beer.
(Typical camp dinner)
Day Thirty One - 12th May Car park - Home
Drove for a few hours to reach Le Shuttle to board the fast train ride back to England. Still had a few more hours drive before we finally making it home and into our freshly changed bed, thanks to our younger daughter, who had been looking after the house for the past month. She had cleaned and tidied it for our homecoming and there were even fresh flowers from the garden in a vase on the kitchen table. It's nice to go away, but it's nice to come home, as my dad likes to say.
#leshuttle, #france, #spain, #santiagodecompostela, #lacanau, #rochelle, #surfing, #vwcampervan, #airedaleterrier, #roadtrip, #camping, #oyambre,
You have a very good sense of photography.