I have just got back from five fabulous days visiting the Isle of Arran with my older daughter, Ruby. It was so beautiful on the island and at times it didn't seem real - like we were living inside a painting. This was my third time to Scotland in a year and it will now be a yearly pilgrimage with Ruby because we are so in love with it, there is so much more to discover and we make excellent travelling companions.
We left home at 5am to catch a train into London and gather food for the journey from London Euston to Glasgow Central. The views were spectacular out of the window, over the British countryside, and it got more dramatic as we headed north. We read, napped, chatted and ate our on board picnic. When we arrived, we hopped into a taxi with our luggage and headed for Arnold Clark, to hire a Vauxhall Corsa for the trip. The staff were so helpful and efficient and the building so modern and clean. I loved how nippy our car was and nicknamed her Diana because her Sat Nav voice sounded like the late princess.
We had an itinerary from Visit Scotland, who had kindly paid for our trip to the Isle of Arran and I was in charge of the paperwork. I felt very important, rustling the papers about at any given opportunity, as I read where we needed to go. Our first stop was to Portencross to see the cutest castle I've ever been to. It is a two up, two down ruin now but years ago there was more one more floor above, which blew off after a fierce storm. It was fascinating hearing about the history from Jacqueline, a volunteer working there. We climbed the creaking stairs to take in the view over the Firth of Clyde and see where the other floor would have been. The castle is set on a tiny beach, which was strewn with gigantic jellyfish and along a bit, is a concrete pier where locals were fishing. Ruby and I walked to the end, which was particularly exhilarating, seeing there was a massive hole in the middle.
(Portencross Castle)
(A huge jellyfish washed ashore at Portencross beach)
(Hole to see the sea through - along the concrete pier at Portencross)
We had parked in the carpark nearby and as the sun had come out, we sat on benches and read our books, soaking up the last of the day's rays before finding the Orangery at Seamill Hydro, which had been booked for our evening meal. I ate a delicious chicken and leek pie and Ruby enjoyed a vegetable gnocchi dish. A couple were kissing in the bandstand of the gardens that we overlooked while eating, while a man walked by in his trunks ready for a cold dip. It was all going on. After a few cups of peppermint tea, we made our way to the ferry terminal at Ardrossan to set sail for the Isle of Arran. The crossing took about an hour and by the time we arrived, it was pitch black so felt lucky to have Diana to guide us to our glamping pod. We unpacked our essentials and cosied up in our pyjamas, clambering into bed to chat, read and sleep.
(View from our table at The Orangery - Seamill Hydro)
(Our cosy cabin pod at King's Caves Glamping)
In the morning, we could properly see our cabin in all its glory. We stayed at King's Caves Glamping and the pods were so lovely. You had everything you needed - nothing more and nothing less. There was a very comfortable double bed, a sofa, that could easily sleep two more people, a little table and chairs inside with TV, plus a bench and seating outside to eat al fresco. The kitchenette had a microwave, kettle, toaster, cutlery, crockery and pans, plus there was a shower room with toilet and sink. It felt so cosy and contained - and made us want to keep it neat and tidy. Just outside was a pond filled with wildlife and the wonderful misty mountains to look up at as we ate breakfast. As we drove around the island, every road was met with panoramic views of heather strewn glens. Sheep overspilled onto the roads and they met your gaze as they lazily ambled out of the way ready to graze at the next spot. Ruby and I went for a gentle two hour walk to see the Machrie Moor Standing Stones, past more sheep and beautiful scenery. It was so calming to see the stones and we got chatting to some tourists who it turned out lived in the next town to us. Such a small world.
(Machrie Moor Standing Stones)
Our next stop was the Heritage Museum where we had sandwiches and coffee for lunch before a mooch around the museum. Andrea, a guide there, told us about the history at the museum and gave us handy tips for our trip. There was an old school room set up with furniture and a doll's house as it would have looked in the 1940s. There was also an old forge or smiddy, a Post Office and a typical 19th Century cottage which was tiny and adorable.
(A reconstruction of how an old classroom would have looked at the Heritage Museum)
We met up with Kate at Brodick Castle, who is Head Ranger for Glen Rosa. We hopped aboard her Land Rover and she took us to see red squirrels from a hide which was amazing. Kate then took us to sit inside an authentic style roundhouse built by volunteers, beside a stone firepit - where Ruby got to try on garments like bronze age people would have worn and we got to hold an axe head from 4000 BCE. Kate was so enthusiastic and sparkled with passion for the conservation work she was doing; since the pandemic, she has helped plant 39,000 deciduous trees at Glen Rosa to reinstate the natural habitat. We had the exciting experience of planting a tree by a large rock, just off from the wild swimming spot, where we bathed our feet. Ruby planted a rowan tree, Kate planted a birch tree and and I planted an oak tree. In fifty years time, some people might enjoy some shade siting on that rock after a swim or a picnic - a lovely thought.
(Kate, Head Ranger of Glen Rosa and Ruby deciding where to plant trees)
(Kate and Ruby beside Kate's Land Rover at Glen Rosa)
We had packed in so much during the day that we didn't have time to go back to our cabin to change, so drove straight to Corrie Hotel for dinner - smoothing our hair down and adding a slick of lipstick to refresh our appearances. Ruby was delighted with her banana blossom vegan version of fish and chips, while I devoured homemade vegetable lasagne. We fancied dessert but sadly had no room left to manage any. When we arrived back at our pod, Ruby crashed out for an hour's nap at 8pm before waking up for our 9pm hot tub booking onsite. It was all go. It was also absolutely heavenly to sink down into the hot bubbling water and let the jets sooth our aching muscles.
On Sunday we were ten minutes late to reach the dock to catch the boat over to Holy Isle with Lamlash Cruises. We were convinced they would have sailed off without us but were so grateful to see them waiting as we rushed on board. Grant who was in charge of the boat was so relaxed and friendly, pointing out wildlife on the island and even pulling in so we could stand on the island and get a feel of the sacred site under our feet. History has it that a 6th century monk called St Molaise lived in a cave there. It was so peaceful on the water, taking in the picturesque scenery of the purple and green misty mountains and looking out for wild Eriskay ponies, Saanen goats and Soay sheep (we did spot these). I love lighthouses and we got to see the inner lighthouse and a square designed one called Mulloch Mor.
(Inner Lighthouse on Holy Isle)
(Mulloch Mor Lighthouse on Holy Isle)
After our exquisite boat trip, we had a quick coffee from Pier Cafe once ashore then made our way to Cafe Thyme at Old Byre for lunch. Lorna and her husband combined their cultural cuisines to create a delicious feast of a menu including Turkish flatbreads loaded with roasted vegetables. Not only was the food good but the service was outstanding. Lorna also ran a shop beside the cafe that sold handmade knitwear - which Lorna colour designed - and her husband ran the shoe shop next door. This set up had a backdrop of a lovely sea and mountain view, with a play park for children to have the time of their lives in. Ruby and I couldn't resist and ended up looking around the shops and treating ourselves to a green Arran jumper (me) and blue Fair Isle style cardigan (Ruby). Before we had made our trip, I had declared that it would be rude not to buy an Arran jumper on the Isle of Arran. I was yet to discover that the famous, cream, chunky knitted fisherman jumpers hail from Aran in Ireland, not Arran in Scotland. So, it was just as well that I fell in love with a hand knitted green Arran jumper instead.
Next on the agenda was a two hour hike to see King's Caves and the spectacular views surrounding us. We passed heather, bracken, plentiful trees, views of rolling hills, mountains and the sea. It was actually quite hot and it was refreshing to enter the cave and cool down. I even had to dip my feet in a rock pool before the climb back up the hill to the carpark. Back at our cabin, Ruby sensibly took a nap but I had drank three coffees that day, so my eyes just pinged open when I tried to close them. We ate at the Drift Inn, back in Lamlash for dinner and the food was scrumptious. Ruby ordered the mushroom stroganoff and I ate tempura aubergine with skinny fries. Our waitress, Eve was so friendly and the restaurant had a great atmosphere and sea views.
(View along the hike to King's Caves)
It was sad to leave the following morning and I played the song 'Mull of Kintyre' by Wings driving to the ferry. I felt quite emotional, as the track was inspired by Paul McCartney when he was in the Isle of Arran. Every time I hear that song now, I'll be reminded of the beauty of that place and from when I used to listen to it growing up, eating Sunday roast with my Dad playing it on his old record player. We arrived at the ferry terminal just in the nick of time and I had to reverse Diana onto the vessel. I was panic stricken at the advice from the ferry worker but he said he believed in me which made me laugh, as I managed to reverse on board and not into the water. As I parked up, two other ferry workers patted the roof of my car and I felt like one of the boys. Immediately, the metal barrier was winched up and off we went. We were signalled to get out of our car by another ferry worker to go up on deck, which we obediently did and enjoyed another calm crossing back to the mainland. Such a wonderful trip thanks to Visit Scotland and we will definitely be back to enjoy a dip at the swimming spot and rest under the shade of our trees one day at Glen Rosa.
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